The Cinque Terre have all the allure of the Tuscan archipelago – rainbow-coloured buildings tucked into cliffs, val- leys sloping down to crystalline Mediterranean water where rocks and fish sliver the light as small boats pass disturbing the sun's watery mirror, a some- times rickety, always convivial wooden table for dining al fresco (plates of pasta heaping with shellfish or Ligurian pesto, sumptuous fish fresh from the sea, a bottle of white wine, lemon sorbetto followed by an espresso...).

For those who fear the sea or get sick as soon as they step footonto a boat, the Cinque Terre have another quality – accessibility. From Lucca they can easily be reached by car or train, and make a perfect one-day excursion.

Going by car, I recommend heading for Monterosso's large car park, where buses will shuttle you down to the village, or you can enjoy the short stroll after the one- hour drive from Lucca. If you plan to walk the four to five hour coastal trail linking the five villages, be sure to come with com- fortable walking shoes, a sunhat, lotion and plenty of water.

A group of friends can easily split up, with some people trekking and some taking the local train which runs frequently between the villages, to meet at the southernmost village, Riomaggiore, or one of the others in between – Vernazza, Corniglia or Manarola – then take the train back to Monterosso. There are nice beaches everywhere, although Corniglia is on a cliff-top high above the sea. Monte- rosso has the largest beach, so a dip before and after the hike might be a good idea.